Executive Summary
3-Sentence Thesis: The Hour Glass is Asia-Pacific's premier luxury watch retailer with a 45-year heritage, operating 70+ boutiques across 8 countries as an authorized dealer for Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. The Tay family's 73% ownership ensures long-term alignment with shareholders, and the business generates exceptional returns (16% ROE, 17% ROIC) with minimal leverage (D/E 5.9%). At P/E 9.9x with 8.8% FCF yield and SGD 1.43 NAV per share, the market significantly undervalues this franchise-quality business that benefits from luxury watch supply constraints and deepening Asian wealth.
Key Metrics Dashboard:
| Metric | Value | Assessment |
|---|---|---|
| P/E (TTM) | 9.9x | Deeply undervalued for quality |
| P/B | 1.61x | Reasonable given ROE |
| FCF Yield | 8.8% | Excellent |
| ROE (5Y Avg) | 17.4% | Passes Buffett test |
| D/E | 5.9% | Fortress balance sheet |
| Dividend Yield | 2.6% | Growing dividend |
| Beta | 0.22 | Very low correlation |
| Payout Ratio | 29% | Conservative, room to grow |
Verdict: BUY - Strong Buy below SGD 1.80, Accumulate below SGD 2.00, HOLD at current SGD 2.30.
Phase 0: Why This Opportunity Exists
Several structural factors create this mispricing:
Singapore small-cap neglect - AGS is an SGD 1.5B company on SGX, with 73% insider ownership and only 26% public float. Institutional investors struggle to build meaningful positions, and no major international analysts cover it deeply.
Luxury sector pessimism - Global luxury sentiment turned negative in 2024-2025 as Chinese consumption weakened. Swiss watch exports fell 2.8% in 2024, and luxury conglomerates (LVMH, Richemont) saw stock declines. The market has tarred all luxury stocks, including those like AGS with fundamentally different dynamics.
Cyclical earnings normalization - FY2025 profit fell 14% from the FY2023 peak of SGD 174M. The market treats this as trend deterioration rather than the natural normalization from a pandemic-driven boom. H1 FY2026 results (revenue +14%, profit +23%) already show recovery.
Misunderstanding of retail quality - Most watch retailers are commodity distributors. The Hour Glass has deep brand relationships spanning 45 years, proprietary boutique networks, and exclusive authorized dealer status for the most supply-constrained brands in the world (Rolex, Patek).
Phase 1: Risk Analysis (Inversion - What Could Destroy This Business?)
Risk Register
| # | Risk Event | Probability | Severity | Expected Loss |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rolex/Patek goes direct-to-consumer, bypassing authorized dealers | 5% | -70% | -3.5% |
| 2 | Asian economic recession/crisis reduces luxury spending 30%+ | 15% | -35% | -5.3% |
| 3 | Tay family governance failure or succession crisis | 10% | -25% | -2.5% |
| 4 | Swiss watch industry secular decline (smartwatch disruption) | 5% | -40% | -2.0% |
| 5 | China-related geopolitical disruption (trade war, Taiwan) | 10% | -20% | -2.0% |
| 6 | Key brand authorization loss (single brand) | 5% | -25% | -1.3% |
| 7 | Currency headwinds (SGD appreciation vs. AUD, THB, JPY) | 30% | -8% | -2.4% |
| 8 | Inventory write-downs from watch market correction | 20% | -10% | -2.0% |
| 9 | Secondary market collapse reducing new watch demand | 15% | -8% | -1.2% |
| 10 | Regulatory changes (luxury tax, import duties) | 10% | -10% | -1.0% |
| Total Expected Downside | -23.2% |
Deep Dive on Top 3 Risks
1. Brand DTC Risk (Low Probability, Catastrophic Impact) Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet have historically relied on authorized dealer networks. Unlike fashion luxury brands (Gucci, Louis Vuitton) that have gone direct, watch brands require specialized service infrastructure, trust relationships, and local market expertise. Rolex has actually been consolidating its dealer network, favoring fewer, larger, better-capitalized partners - which benefits The Hour Glass. The 2025 acquisition of Australian Rolex boutiques reinforces this trend. Probability: Very low in the next decade.
2. Asian Economic Recession (Moderate Probability) THG derives ~86% of revenue from South-East Asia & Oceania and ~14% from North-East Asia (Japan, HK). A prolonged Asian recession would hit luxury discretionary spending. However, THG demonstrated resilience during COVID (FY2021 revenue fell only 1% vs FY2020) and the 2015-16 Chinese slowdown. The business has survived the 1997 Asian Financial Crisis, SARS, GFC, and COVID. Mitigation: strong balance sheet (net cash), conservative inventory management.
3. Succession Risk (Moderate) Dr Henry Tay (founder) is the Executive Chairman. Michael Tay (son) is Group Managing Director since 2015. The succession from founder to second generation appears well-managed, with Michael having 25+ years at the company. However, third-generation risk remains. The Tay family's 73% ownership stake ensures deep alignment but creates key-man risk. Mitigation: professional management team, experienced independent board.
Tail Risk Scenario
If Rolex simultaneously went DTC AND an Asian recession hit, losses would compound to approximately -50% to -60%. However, this scenario has an estimated combined probability of less than 1%.
Phase 2: Financial Analysis
Revenue & Growth Analysis
| FY | Revenue (SGD M) | Growth | Profit (SGD M) | Net Margin |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FY2020 | 749 | - | 77 | 10.3% |
| FY2021 | 743 | -0.8% | 85 | 11.4% |
| FY2022 | 1,033 | +39.1% | 157 | 15.2% |
| FY2023 | 1,123 | +8.7% | 174 | 15.5% |
| FY2024 | 1,130 | +0.6% | 158 | 13.9% |
| FY2025 | 1,163 | +2.9% | 136 | 11.7% |
| H1 FY2026 | 615 | +14.0% | 76 | 12.3% |
Observations:
- Revenue has grown from SGD 749M to SGD 1,163M in 5 years (CAGR: 9.2%)
- The FY2022-23 surge reflected pandemic-era watch collecting boom
- FY2024-25 represents normalization, NOT decline
- H1 FY2026 shows accelerating growth (+14% revenue, +23% profit), driven by the Australian Rolex acquisition and recovering Asian demand
DuPont ROE Decomposition
| Component | FY2025 | FY2024 | FY2023 | 5Y Avg |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Net Profit Margin | 11.7% | 13.9% | 15.5% | 13.4% |
| Asset Turnover | 0.99x | 1.00x | 1.06x | 0.99x |
| Equity Multiplier | 1.27x | 1.33x | 1.36x | 1.36x |
| ROE | 14.7% | 18.6% | 22.5% | 17.4% |
ROE has averaged 17.4% over 5 years, well above the 15% Buffett threshold. The decline in FY2025 reflects margin compression during luxury normalization, not structural deterioration. Very low leverage (equity multiplier 1.27x) means returns are driven by genuine business quality, not financial engineering.
Owner Earnings Calculation
FY2025 Owner Earnings (SGD '000):
Net Income: 136,083
+ Depreciation & Amortization: 49,410
- Maintenance CapEx (est.): (15,000) [~60% of total CapEx]
- Lease payments: (33,854)
= Owner Earnings: 136,639
Per share (647.7M shares): SGD 0.211
Owner Earnings Yield: 9.2% (at SGD 2.30)
ROIC Calculation
FY2025 ROIC:
NOPAT = Operating Profit x (1 - tax rate)
= ~177,000 x (1 - 0.224) = ~137,300
Invested Capital = Equity + Debt - Cash
= 926,676 + 54,811 - 178,689 = 802,798
ROIC = 137,300 / 802,798 = 17.1%
ROIC of 17.1% significantly exceeds estimated WACC of ~8-9%, indicating the business creates substantial value.
Free Cash Flow Analysis
| FY | Operating CF | CapEx | FCF | FCF Margin |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FY2025 | 158 | (26) | 131 | 11.3% |
| FY2024 | 132 | (17) | 115 | 10.2% |
| FY2023 | 161 | (94) | 67 | 6.0% |
| FY2022 | 221 | (13) | 209 | 20.2% |
| FY2021 | 174 | (13) | 162 | 21.8% |
FCF has been consistently positive and substantial, averaging SGD 137M per year. The FY2023 dip reflected elevated CapEx for boutique upgrades, not operational weakness.
Balance Sheet Fortress
- Net Cash: SGD 124M (cash SGD 179M - loans SGD 55M)
- D/E Ratio: 5.9% (lowest in 5 years, declining trend)
- Investment Properties: SGD 217M (prime real estate in Singapore, Hong Kong, Australia, NZ)
- Current Ratio: 3.5x
- No corporate bonds outstanding (despite having a SGD 500M MTN program available)
- Inventory: SGD 328M at 2.4x turnover - healthy and productive
The balance sheet is exceptionally conservative. The company owns significant real estate, has net cash, and maintains access to undrawn credit facilities. This is a financial fortress.
Valuation
DCF Valuation (Conservative):
Assumptions:
- Base FCF: SGD 140M (normalized, including Australian Rolex contribution)
- Growth Phase (Years 1-5): 6% CAGR (conservative given +14% H1 FY2026)
- Mature Phase (Years 6-10): 3% CAGR
- Terminal Growth: 2.5% (luxury inflation)
- Discount Rate: 9% (low leverage, stable business)
Year 1-5 PV: SGD 634M
Year 6-10 PV: SGD 455M
Terminal PV: SGD 1,076M
Total EV: SGD 2,165M
- Net Debt: (SGD 124M net cash)
Equity Value: SGD 2,289M
Per Share: SGD 3.53
Current Price: SGD 2.30
Upside: +53%
Margin of Safety: 35%
Owner Earnings Valuation:
At SGD 0.211 owner earnings per share, applying a 12x-15x multiple (justified for a high-quality, low-risk business):
- Low: SGD 0.211 x 12 = SGD 2.53
- Mid: SGD 0.211 x 13.5 = SGD 2.85
- High: SGD 0.211 x 15 = SGD 3.17
Relative Valuation:
| Metric | AGS | Watches of Switzerland (WOSG) | Luxury Retail Average |
|---|---|---|---|
| P/E | 9.9x | 20x+ | 18-25x |
| P/B | 1.6x | 3-5x | 3-5x |
| EV/EBITDA | ~7x | 10-12x | 12-15x |
| Dividend Yield | 2.6% | 0-1% | 1-2% |
| D/E | 6% | 50-100% | 30-80% |
The Hour Glass trades at a massive discount to Western luxury retail peers on every metric. Even applying a "Singapore discount" of 20-30%, fair value is SGD 2.80-3.50.
Fair Value Range: SGD 2.80 - 3.50 per share
Phase 3: Moat Analysis
Moat Rating: WIDE (Narrow-to-Wide)
Moat Sources
1. Authorized Dealer Relationships (Primary Moat - Extremely Durable)
The Hour Glass has been an authorized dealer for Rolex since its founding in 1979 - a 45-year relationship spanning three generations of watch brand leadership. Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and other top brands similarly maintain decades-long relationships.
Why this is nearly impossible to replicate:
- Rolex has been actively reducing its global dealer count (from ~8,000 to ~4,500 over 15 years)
- New authorizations for Rolex are essentially impossible to obtain
- Brand relationships are cultivated over decades, not years
- The AUD 90M Australian Rolex acquisition in 2025 demonstrates how THG expands within existing brand relationships rather than new entrants gaining access
Measurable evidence: The Hour Glass is the ONLY authorized multi-brand luxury watch retailer of its scale in the Asia-Pacific region. No competitor has comparable breadth and depth of brand relationships.
2. Scale & Geographic Network (Strong)
With 70+ boutiques across Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Japan, Hong Kong, Australia, and New Zealand, THG has the most extensive luxury watch retail network in Asia-Pacific outside of China. This geographic diversification across 8 countries provides:
- Risk mitigation (no single-market dependence)
- Purchasing power with Swiss brands
- Ability to serve traveling luxury consumers across the region
3. Cultural Capital & Expertise (Moderate)
The Hour Glass positions itself as a cultural institution, not just a retailer. The IAMWATCH event, editorial content, and decades of horological expertise create brand equity that transcends transactional retailing. Dr. Henry Tay and Michael Tay are recognized figures in the global watch industry.
4. Real Estate & Location (Supporting)
SGD 217M in investment properties, plus owned boutique locations in prime sites across Asia-Pacific. Premium retail locations in Orchard Road (Singapore), Ginza (Japan), Central (Hong Kong), and George Street (Sydney) are extremely difficult to replicate.
Moat Durability Assessment
| Threat | Impact on Moat | Timeline |
|---|---|---|
| DTC by brands | Would destroy moat | 10+ years (very unlikely) |
| New competitor | Cannot replicate dealer relationships | Permanent |
| E-commerce | Limited threat - luxury watches are high-touch | Permanent |
| Chinese retailers | Limited to China market | Neutral |
| Smartwatches | Different market segment entirely | Permanent |
Moat Verdict: The authorized dealer relationship is the core moat. It is widening, not narrowing, as brands consolidate their retail networks toward fewer, better-capitalized partners. The Hour Glass is a primary beneficiary of this trend.
Phase 4: Decision Synthesis
Management Assessment
Leadership Quality: A
| Factor | Assessment |
|---|---|
| Dr Henry Tay (Founder/Chairman) | Founded 1979. 45+ years. Medical doctor turned luxury retail pioneer. |
| Michael Tay (CEO since 2015) | Oxford Brookes 1st class honors. 25+ years at THG. Industry leader. |
| Insider Ownership | 73% Tay family (TYC Investment 52%, personal holdings 14%, AMSTAY 5%) |
| Capital Allocation | Excellent. Conservative D/E, share buybacks, property acquisitions. |
| Succession | Second-generation transition complete. Third-generation TBD. |
Capital Allocation Track Record:
- Reduced D/E from 15.5% (FY2021) to 5.9% (FY2025)
- Bought back SGD 76M in shares over FY2022-2025
- Invested SGD 80M in prime investment properties (FY2025)
- Acquired Australian Rolex boutiques (AUD 90M) - strategic expansion
- Maintained consistent dividends through cycles
This is textbook Buffett-quality capital allocation: conservative balance sheet, opportunistic acquisitions, returning capital to shareholders.
Position Sizing
Using the Kelly Criterion framework:
- Estimated probability of outperformance: 70%
- Expected return if correct: +40% (to SGD 3.20)
- Expected loss if wrong: -20% (to SGD 1.84)
- Kelly fraction: 70% - (30% / (40%/20%)) = 55%
- Half-Kelly (conservative): 27%
Recommended allocation: 3-5% of portfolio
This higher-than-typical allocation reflects:
- Very low downside risk (fortress balance sheet, net cash)
- Strong insider alignment (73% family ownership)
- Clear margin of safety at current valuation
- Low beta (0.22) provides portfolio diversification
Entry Strategy
| Price Level | Action | P/E at Level | Rationale |
|---|---|---|---|
| SGD 1.80 | Strong Buy | 7.8x | Deep value, crisis pricing |
| SGD 2.00 | Accumulate | 8.6x | Attractive entry |
| SGD 2.30 | Hold/Small Position | 9.9x | Fair-to-undervalued |
| SGD 2.80 | Hold | 12.1x | Approaching fair value |
| SGD 3.50 | Consider Trim | 15.1x | Fully valued |
Monitoring Metrics
| Metric | Threshold | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Revenue growth | < -10% YoY | Investigate |
| Gross margin | < 28% | Concern |
| D/E ratio | > 30% | Review capital allocation |
| Inventory turnover | < 1.5x | Watch for write-downs |
| Rolex/Patek relationship | Any negative signal | Deep review |
| Tay family selling | Any material disposal | Exit signal |
Expected Return Scenarios
| Scenario | Probability | 3-Year Return | Weighted |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bull (luxury recovery, expansion) | 30% | +80% | +24% |
| Base (steady growth, modest re-rating) | 45% | +40% | +18% |
| Bear (luxury recession, margin compression) | 20% | -10% | -2% |
| Tail (brand loss, crisis) | 5% | -40% | -2% |
| Expected Return | +38% |
Including dividends (2.6%/year x 3 = +7.8%), total expected 3-year return is approximately +46%, or **13.5% annualized**.
Investment Decision
VERDICT: BUY
The Hour Glass is a rare franchise-quality business trading at deep-value multiples. The combination of:
- Irreplaceable moat - 45-year authorized dealer relationships with Rolex, Patek Philippe, AP
- Fortress balance sheet - Net cash, 5.9% D/E, SGD 217M investment properties
- Aligned ownership - Tay family owns 73%, no agency problem
- Growth optionality - Australian Rolex expansion, Vietnam growth, ASEAN wealth tailwinds
- Compelling valuation - P/E 9.9x, FCF yield 8.8%, DCF fair value SGD 3.00-3.50
... makes this an exceptionally attractive investment for patient, long-term oriented investors.
The primary risk is illiquidity (26% public float, SGD 1.5B market cap) rather than business quality. This is a company worth owning for 10+ years.
Action: Initiate position at current levels. Accumulate on any weakness below SGD 2.00. Target allocation: 3-5% of portfolio.
Sources: The Hour Glass Annual Reports FY2020-FY2025, SGX filings, stockanalysis.com, company investor relations.